The Modern Make Up Conundrum: The Seven Face Type Theory of Makeup- How to find your Face Shape

All Beauty and Makeup information comes from A Complete 1950s Guide to Vintage Makeup, Hairstyling & Beauty Techniques by the Westmore Brothers. 


If this informatin interests you you may also find the following related articles helpful:

The Modern Make Up Conundrum: The Seven Face Type Theory of Makeup- How to find your Face Shape

Seasonal Beauty Care

The Proper Steps to Applying Makeup

The Oompa Loompa Effect

The Eyes Are the Windows to the Soul

Recently, I attempted to find out what qualifies for current in make up and hair so I could stay up to date and just so I could change my look for the summer. After several hours of googling how to apply make up in Google.co.uk, google.ca and google.com the truth hit home to me. In an age where every woman strives to look unique and stand out advice for applying make up and hair is designed for one type of girl. If you don't fit that mould too bad.  Make up and hair wasn't always this one track, in fact women used to learn how to do their make up using something called The Seven Face-Type Theory which was created by the Westmore brothers in 1930. For those not in the know the Westmore Brothers were the heads of every Studio Hair and Make Up department for the entire Golden Age of Hollywood and coiffed and painted everyone from Judy Garland to Rosalind Russell. I am very lucky to have an excellent book from Bramcost Publications called A Complete 1950s Guide to Vintage Makeup, hairstyling and Beauty Techniques that has been written by them. In an attempt to bring enlightenment to the world I'm going to attempt to put forward the basics of the books for mass consumption, but if you want the full details you'll need to buy the book it's well worth it.


The first question crossing your mind is what is this Seven Face Type Theory. The idea is that in the world there are 7 basic face shapes; Oval, Oblong, Round, Square, Triangle, Inverted Triangle and Diamond. Now depending on what the shape of your face is dictates how you apply your make up, and what hair styles will flatter your face type. The Oval is the ideal shape and the techniques strive to make the face shapes appear more ovalish.  This isn't to say to that the other shapes are bad I myself have a diamond shaped face. But to be able to compliment your face you have to know first what to hide, what to accentuate etc..


Now that the question of what the Seven Face Type Theory of make up has been explained, how do you figure out what face shape you have? Well I will tell you. You need a clear outline of your face. so you'll need to cover your hair with a nylon stocking and wash that caked on make up off your face.You need the naked truth for this. Once that's done prepare a sheet of paper with an oblong 9 inches long and 7 inches wide. Draw vertical and horizontal lines 3 across and 3 down to form a grid with 16 boxes. Next print out the picture of the calliper from here and cut it out and fasten it together with a thumb-tack make sure the calliper can move to take measurements. To make it sturdier you can even glue it onto cardboard.

Now use the calliper, a ruler and the sheet of paper with the grid to record your face measurements.

1. Place the 2 points of the calliper on each of your temples right at the hairline. Take the calliper away measure the distance and mark this on your grid on the top line.

2. Measure your cheeks the same way at the high point of your cheekbones, mark this on the second line of the grid.

3. Measure the widest part of the jaw line and mark the measurement on the third line of the grid.

4. Draw Straight lines between the measurements on the paper so that you have a geometrical figure which indicates your face type.

The Face Types- Now that you have your face shape what does that mean?

Oval- Oval is the ideal, this is the face shape that our modern make up application tips is assuming you have. This means that the face is egg shaped. with the forehead slightly wider then the chin. Cheekbones 2/3 the length of the face It's not difficult to mess up make up for this face. as the features are symmetrical.




Oblong- This is a long and narrow face. The Oblong doesn't vary too much from the perfect Oval measurements in width or length the difference comes in long thin side planes of the cheek. an angular jaw, and straight or possibly pointed chin. There is a lack of curve. There is also a high forehead and thinly padded facial bones are characteristics. Curve, fullness and foreshortening are the aims of make up and hairstyle. A more sophisticated hair style can be worn if the side planes of the face are exposed. Don't cover the cheeks with dips and curls, White stand up or softening collar effects will shorten the length of the neck, avoid long pendulous earrings.

Round- Circular, not much longer then broad with a rounded hairline. The greatest width is at the cheeks which sustain fullness down to the jawbone. where the face rounds off into a short full chin. It's possible this is from being overweight. While curve is lovely the objective is to make sure it's not overdone. The rounded pattern will repeat to the eyebrows, mouth and given a short full neck. In hairstyling and make up you must avoid the circular pattern such as small round curls, circular rouge application etc... When you get dressed eliminate round earrings, high rounded collars, and so on. Straight lines give an illusion of height and length which are the objectives.

Square- Square shapes are circles with corners. the face is almost as broad as it is long. The widths vary very little from each other. What distinguishes the square from the circle is a straight hairline and a generous angular jawbone rather than a rounded one giving way to a square bottomed chin. A Square face is associated with strong character and personality and individuality. More then likely this type has very definite eyebrows nose and other features. For feminine purposes the objective is to soften these angular outlines, and diminish the heavy jawed look. Never do small things with a square face. Small mouth, curls earrings etc are a no no. Instead utilize gently curves in fashion and wear softly rounded shoulders and deep necklines to give length to the neck.

Triangle- It's all going pear shaped now. The triangle which is also referred to as the pear shape in in a full face has the greatest width at the lower section of the face and tapers upward. There may be a low and close hairline which makes the brow even narrower. For this type avoid hair styling that crowds the temple, and large off the face or wide brimmed hats are a definite yes. Never wear chokers instead go for pendants on long chains to draw attention away from the triangle.

Inverted Triangle- This is the reverse of the triangle so the forehead is widest and tapers down to the chin. In hairdressing and make up add fullness to the small lower face Avoid anything top heavy looking in hats and hair dos. Large earrings and frilly full collars will frame the neck and look fantastic.




Diamond- Last but not least. the Diamond is my favourite... because I'm a small diamond . The diamond is the girls best friend there are small diamonds like me and also large broad ones. Both are wonderful. The characteristics of each is extra width at the cheekbones (more then 2/3 the length of the face) Forehead and chin narrow off, and the hairline and jaw measurements are approximately the same. The extra wide cheeks may be pointed or could extend into a broad full fleshed cheek. Both diamonds should stay away from horizontal lines in hats collars, anything running parallel to the width of the cheeks. For small diamonds like me you should avoid anything that will give a point to the narrow forehead or chin. Gentle curves are needed to have rounded lines everywhere especially the upper and lower parts of the face.